Tailored jacket from Yohji Yamamoto’s pre-Y3 collection – it lands halfway between formal and track jacket. Expertly cut panels make for a flattering waist with a dramatic gathered hem. The star feature is the three stripe collar. It uses a delicate material with raw edges and drapes unevenly. It matches a single cuff. The main body is done in an off-white fine wool. The lining is cupro. For lovers of sportier clothing Yamamoto’s aw01 show is easily one of his finest. He experiments with polyester, stripes, double zips and stretch fabrics. But luxury is not compromised on – the zip on this jacket is affixed with tailoring style slanted tacks. The story goes that he saw a growing distance between what he was working on and what he saw people wearing day to day. His reaction was to experiment with trainers, denim and more casual styles. It’s questionable whether these items are officially sanctioned by Adidas – this season marked the start of the footwear collaborations but clothing was designed by Yamamoto. Funnily enough, Y-3 would crib many of their designs from this season, so Adidas won in the end. A dark navy/black colourway was also shown on the runway but lacks the striped cuffs.